Santorini, the Greek island renowned for its postcard-perfect blue domes and whitewashed cliffside homes, is facing a crisis of overtourism. The relentless flow of tourists, up to 8,000 a day during peak season, is transforming the island's daily life and pushing its fragile landscape beyond its limits. This is a story of a delicate balance between economic survival and environmental preservation, and it's not just Santorini that's feeling the pressure.
Santorini's popularity can be attributed to a combination of factors. The island has received enormous social media exposure, being widely described as one of the world's most 'Instagrammable' islands. Worldwide campaigns have heavily promoted travel to the Greek Islands, and cruise operators have expanded their Mediterranean itineraries in response to surging demand after the COVID-19 pandemic. By nightfall, after capturing their sunset snap, many of these travellers will return to one of the three cruise ships anchored offshore. By the next day, a fresh fleet will arrive and unload yet another wave of visitors.
However, the strain on the island's water supply is unsustainable. Santorini is one of the driest islands in Greece, with no natural source of drinking water. Over the centuries, residents survived by carving cisterns into volcanic rock beneath their homes, which collected and stored rainwater underground. But many of those cisterns no longer exist; they have fallen into disrepair or have been converted to luxury cave suites with plunge pools. Santorini now boasts more than 1,000 pools, and water must often be shipped in to meet demands.
Locals say the strain on the island's water supply is unsustainable, especially in the peak tourist season when demand surges. Yet new construction is still widespread. Developers build hotels on steep volcanic slopes where the soil is unstable, despite Greece being one of the world's most earthquake-prone countries. Early last year, a wave of intense earthquakes rocked Santorini, triggering evacuations and renewing fears about overdevelopment. Scientists recorded 28,000 tremors in just a few weeks. Even minor tremors can trigger dangerous rockfalls.
The pressure on the island is 'unbearable', according to environmentalist Karolina Rakaki, who is lobbying to halt new construction projects. But she's up against powerful players. Many court cases in Greece are not decided according to who has the better arguments, but according to how powerful the opponent is.
Similar tensions are unfolding between locals and developers in nearby Mykonos, which has earned a reputation as a playground for the rich and famous. Tourism is big business, but a web of illegal construction and property sales linked to organised crime has flourished alongside it. Several police officers have also been arrested for corruption, as authorities try to crack down on illegal building and crime.
Mykonos mayor Christos Veronis insists anti-corruption efforts, including extra police, have improved the situation. However, people accused of building without permits can face demolition orders and hefty fines. Yet many illegal structures are still standing, as local authorities look to others for enforcement.
Not every Greek island is following the same path. On the remote island of Astypalea, tourism is low-key. That's exactly how business owner Konstantina Giannarou wants it to stay. Astypalea has no international airport and cruise ships can't dock there. There's also no direct ferry. Last year, 70,000 tourists made the long boat journey to Astypalea. It's only a fraction of the numbers flooding into hotspots like Mykonos.
Giannarou runs a small hotel with her mother. She says the travellers who visit Astypalea are searching for an authentic, homely experience. She doesn't want tourists who come here and party, drinking until the morning and all that like on other islands. A souvlaki in Mykonos costs €17 and here it costs €3.50… I would like us to stay the way we are.
The threat of development looms over the peaceful island. Astypalea mayor, Nikolaos Komineas, says local authorities are trying to protect the island from overtourism, and have managed to halt a 200-house development. Walking through rocky hillsides dotted with wild thyme plants, he proudly points to the bees buzzing around them in abundance. They produce the island's renowned honey.
Komineas explains that they try to preserve agriculture and animal husbandry, their old traditions. This is our true island life. It has to stay the way it is, forever.
His approach is in stark contrast to popular islands like Mykonos and Santorini. Though it's been decades since tourism took off, authorities are only now trying to rein in visitor numbers. Daily cruise ship passengers, which would surge to as many as 17,000 on peak days, are now capped at 8,000 in Mykonos and Santorini. Tourists also have to pay a €20 tax to step foot on the islands.
Despite these efforts, the pressures brought on by tourism show no signs of easing. Greece has just posted its third consecutive year of record-breaking tourist arrivals, with international arrivals increasing 5 per cent between 2024 and 2025. Greece's popularity leaves Astypalea's residents grappling with the dilemma of how to welcome tourists without sacrificing the island's culture and environment.
In conclusion, the Greek islands are a testament to the delicate balance between economic survival and environmental preservation. As the number of tourists continues to surge, it is crucial to find a sustainable solution that allows these islands to thrive without compromising their unique character and natural beauty.
